| THE MACHINES OF THE TEXTILE - "Restored and Running" In the Museum many extraordinary documents are preserved of the
evolution in the textile industry in Chieri, significant for the variety of types and
technologies. Spinning machines, mill and beam warpers, hand looms, sample books,
measurement and other instruments, coming from private collections and from the donations
of manufacturers, peculiar documents of the operation in one of the most ancient and
uninterruptedly active places in Piedmont. Several hand looms, with two or four heddles,
and parts of looms are exhibited, with coeval accessories, including reed combs, fly and
hand shuttles, and parts of Jacquard looms, whose use was introduced in Chieri in the
first half of the XIX cent., that is quite early. The mill warper, from the Brunetti collection, is surely the
most valuable example of the advanced type, with its ancillary equipment: winding reel,
warping creel and stool, as are described in the major XIX cent. treatises. Bossi (1874)
mentions that "... warping is one of the most important operations in weaving. And
the resulting quality of a fabric much depends on the way the warping has been carried out
...". The most ancient looms preserved in the Museo del Tessile date back to the XVI
cent.: these are obviously without shuttle, rather with a stick-shuttle, substantially
unchanged through the centuries, to the extent that one could say that on such machines
the Romans wove their fabrics at the times of Jesus. The first fundamental step forward in weaving technique dates
back to the XVIII cent., with the shuttle loom: the shuttle, a piece of wood, sharpened to
be capable to make its way through the threads, with a container inside, where a spool is
fitted which leaves back the thread on the way. The spool is flung by a hand operated
cudgel and runs on small wheels , thus reducing the weaver's effort. |
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